Target Coatings, Inc.

[mstucker]

I know this horse just needs to rest. I've read just about every post about cherry schedules. But I need to ask so that I can get the correct products ordered.

I am building a cherry buffet for some friends that needs to be stained a dark reddish brown to match an existing dining table. It is primarily solid cherry except for the door and end panels which I used some curly cherry veneer on them. Because of the solid cherry I want to avoid the splotchiness that comes with cherry, yet enhance the figure on the veneer.

I saw on a post about some figured mahogany and they were adviced to use the Ultima WR clear base. I don't remember if this item was all figured mahogany or just parts of it. So I'm not sure if I apply the clear base to the whole buffet or just the panels. If I apply it to the whole buffet will I avoid the splotchiness on the solid cherry? If I apply it to just the panels then do I use a shellac sealcoat to the rest? If so then what color? I've seen posts suggesting garnet and golden red. And then if I use the clear base on part and the shellac on another part will I have a shade issue?

I already have some Transtint reddish brown and dark mission brown on hand per a recipe I saw on here. I will experiment with the ratio on some test panels to get the color match. I think I've read enough posts that discuss how much reduction I can safely go with.

I also have some USL on hand but I'm wondering if I need to go with the SuperClear 9000 for the added durability on the top of the buffet.

Sorry about the redundancy of the post, but I'm not sure I read anything on how to enhance the figured grain on the veneer yet avoid the splotchiness on the solid cherry all on one project.

I certainly wish that the finish part of a woodworking project was as enjoyable as the rest. I always have way too much anxiety with this phase. Maybe that's why oil has always been such a large part of my finish schedules in the past. I guess I should look at it as a challenge and at least I have one more thing I can add to my tool belt.

What little I've used the USL I'm really sold on it. I don't have a lot of experience with spraying my finish and what I have sprayed has been primarily ML Campbell MagnaMax. But it sure is nice to not have lacquer fumes gassing out into the house for 2 days after shooting. Plus with the winter we've had this year it's been impossible to spray in my unheated garage. At least with the USL I could spray in a make shift booth in my basement shop.

Thanks Jeff for the great product and support.

Mark

[Frederick Rowe]

Mark - To break down your question into two separate parts might help. First is blotching in cherry. Unless your cherry is remarkably straight grained, you will probably experience some degree of splotching. It is not a defect in the wood - it is figuring in the grain which takes in finish differently than straight grained wood. Under different light the figured area will shimmer, then at a slightly different angle may appear dull or flat. Wipe on DNR, MS, or even water, and you'll see were the figure is. The question remaining then becomes, what I you do to minimize the undesirable blotch. Generally speaking, the solution is by applying a wash coat which will attenuate blotching by reducing the amount of dye/oil/shellac the absorption prone wood will take in. If you apply a wash coat to the entire piece, then all the wood will take in less finish. You may end up with less blotching, but less finish in the piece in it's entirety. Application of a wash coat in only blotch prone areas will will solve this problem, but you will have to feather the wash coated areas with surrounding areas to avoid a clear line of demarcation similar to a glue smudge. Within the Target line of products, I've used EM1000 and EM6000 in a 50/50 mix as a wash coat on cherry with good results. I brush apply the wash coat to end grain of raised panels, then spray wash coat over the entire piece. If you use Ultra Seal, you'll be imparting some tint, so test on similar wood to ensure you end up with the color you want. Keep in mind cherry will naturally darken with age.

Second issue is the tint/coating. If you use EM1000 or EM6000 as wash coat, there shouldn't be an appreciable change in color. It does make it easier in that it will separate the wash coat from the tinting steps in your overall finish schedule. I used the EM4000 as a carrier for dye in cherry. The EM4000 gives a depth similar to that of BLO. I choose to separate the tinting from the final finish coat (EM6000 in my case) because I wanted the flexibility to shade some areas of sap wood which are lighter than the rest of the wood. As for durability, If the buffet is likely to have a lot of surface contact with plates, dishes, etc . . . the SC9000 will provide the greatest abrasion resistance in the Target line of finishes.

Best takeaway from my experience is test until you get what you want. Be consistent in making your test boards. Don't test a dye color mix without the wash coat if your intent is to use a wash coat. Likewise, if you plan on spraying your finish, spray your test boards. If you are having a problem with the application (pin holes, orange peel, blushing) work out the problem until you can repeatably apply the finish. Don't think that you've identified the problem and are so sure that you make some change on the final piece you haven't tested first. It'll go a long way to relieving most of the anxiety in finishing your own work. Mastering more than just a wipe on oil finish will open up a new level of woodworking.

[Jeff Weiss]

Frederick- Well put. Thank you for your advise and insight.

Mark- Thank you for your patience in receiving this reply. Although this topic is discussed throughout the FZ forum pages, I have been waiting, like you, to see what other replies/answers would arise from your question. My point is- although there are basic rules to working with the Target Coatings line of WB finishes, each of our clients have their own methods, experiences and variations that define the process in different ways. By allowing our customers to communicate 1:1 without complete control from my desk we are able to determine how well/not well the products are working.

Highest Regards to both of you.
JW
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